Permits are required to camp beyond this point and can be obtained for free at the Glacier Public . Shuksan, which is generally regarded as the Sulphide Glacier route. As we neared what I thought was the beginning of the ridge, another party arrived, and we let them pass us given my expectation to be pitching everything out. . To make a climbing report, please e-mail the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Mt. Requires good physical condition and endurance. A ranger ascends the Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. This was a fun climb, and a huge confidence booster. Watch for rockfall in the chimneys and take special care on the summit pyramid gully because of loose rock and multiple parties. Photo by NPS/ W . According to Fred Beckey: Mt. Your guide team will pool all tips. A deposit of $500.00 is due at the time of registration to reserve a space on the course. We reached the Sulphide glacier just as morning twilight was beginning. We ate some snacks, enjoyed the expansive views of the North Cascades as the cloud layer was starting to break up and reveal the smaller peaks around us. Trailhead: Shannon Ridge, 2500 ft. High Camp: 6500 ft. Camp to Summit: 4-5 hours, 2700 ft. gain. Our summit day starts early with a pre-dawn alpine start. Traverse across a large talus field, gaining about 100 ft, to a gully on the far side. The traditional name of Mount Shuksan in the Nooksack language is Shqsan ("high foot") or Ch'sqen ("golden eagle") Climbing this mountain can be a significant challenge, especially taking the route that we did. This snowy peak towers above Oregon, inspiring climbers and non-climbers alike. After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. After the clinics the team will apply their new skills with a move to high camp; 1.5 Mile, +1,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hours Skills Session, with 2 Hours of Travel TIme.Day 3 - Summit Day! SE Ridge was clear of snow all the way to the summit, decent enough rock, no slings or anchors on the ridge proper. Climbing Time: 4 hours. We started Saturday afternoon and headed to lake Ann to make camp. Joe and rob looking a little tiredconsidering that Rob had never climbed even a single pitch of anything before today, Joe had never been on a glacier before, and I had was leading my first ever glacier-rock combination alpine route this was a huge success! Cold drinking water will be available in high camp. Fisher Chimneys Route - Mt. Day 2 . This short traverse from the end of the ropes to the final rap station was not that difficult though. Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. Day 2 Summit Day Additionally, only one person (Joe) was available for that weekend. Mt. Off Trail but can't complain about the dramatic view hiking over the Lower Curtis glacier. Kyle and I climbed Shuksan via the classic Fisher Chimneys route + SE rib on Sunday. Shuksan taken from the Summit of neighborin 1. WA The Guide Hut offers a wide variety of freeze-dried meals for purchase, including vegan and gluten free options. Solid holds all over the chimneys make for fun scrambling. Mount Shuksan: Fisher Chimneys Attempt. The Upper Curtis glacier was shedding ice and rock all evening into the night, an excellent reminder of the ever present objective hazards and motivation to stay efficient moving under the cliff bands to the left the next day. . Fires are a pleasurable, old-fashioned pastime but they are not necessary for cooking or warmth. Please visit the online Gear Shop for a list of available merchandise and to pre-purchase items. Climbs of Fisher Chimneys & the North Face are done on a private (1:1) or small, private group basis. Mt. 2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. Shuksan. Times: 2-3 hr trailhead to camp, 7-8 . Trip Date: July 7-8, 2018 Distance: ~14 miles roundrip Elevation Gain: 6750 ft Fees/Permits: North Cascades National Park Backcountry Permit (if camping overnight); National Parks Pass Permit Location: Glacier Public Service Center . My goal was to be back at high camp by noon, a little over 8 hours later. A couple parties came through the upper Bivy, including some climbing rangers who did their usual permit checks. This climb includes glacier travel, and more than 1,500 vertical feet of scrambling and moderate rock climbing, some of which must be done while carrying a heavy overnight pack. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world with its . We recommend Signature Travel Insurance. All programs are subject to the Mountain Bureau LLC Terms & Conditions, MOUNTAIN BUREAU LLC 1752 Northwest Market Street Box 414, Seattle, Washington, United States +1.6-one-9.432.546-two contact@mountainbureau.com. Four 15-minute snack breaks on the ascent from high camp to summit, two or three 15-minute snack breaks on the descent from summit to high camp. Climbers should monitor the forecast diligently before beginning a trip and turn around if conditions deteriorate. so I decided to grab the permit and make Fisher . Photo from Joe. In addition to professional instruction in climbing skills, most importantly, you will learn skills that will keep you safe in the mountains. We reached the bottom of the final class 4 section around 7:30pm, a solid 16 hours since we set off that morning. Intro to Sport Climbing After I tied back in for glacier travel, we made the very hot slog across the Upper Curtis back to high camp. Since departures require a minimum number of participants, Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a stringent refund policy. I didnt want to overburden myself so I made some judicious cuts to my clothing kit, accepting the fact that if the weather window collapsed it would be immediate cause to turn back. Depends on, Appreciation climb for volunteers of the 2023 Seattle Intensive Basic Alpine Climbing Course, Basic Alpine Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys, Basic Glacier Climb - Mount Shuksan/Fisher Chimneys. Continue driving another 45 minutes to the Lake Anne Trailhead. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) Camped at Ann lake. Northwest Alpine Guides makes every effort to uphold the scheduled itinerary, although our guides are given discretion to adapt the itinerary for reasons beyond our control or due to the needs of the group. Please see our Custom Guiding pages for more information or Contact Us for a custom program. Discover this 15.7-mile out-and-back trail near Deming, Washington. Return times on the final day of the program are difficult to predict. Additional parking can be found across the street in the Park & Ride lot. Mt. . Limited services are available in Sedro-Woolley. June 26-27. It was a huge relief to transition back to trekking poles and take off the helmets. Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Day 3: Descend the Fisher Chimneys, hike out. Transportation between the meeting location and the trailhead is not included in the price of the trip. The trail descends onto a ridge then turns right and enters a gully. If you feel you cannot safely navigate the terrain without leaving a marker, label your stakes or flagging and then be diligent and responsible in removing each and every one. Read our Four-Legged Stool blog post for tips on finding the right adventure for you. Day 2: Climb the North Face, circumnavigate to the base of the summit pyramid, climb to the summit, descend to the top of the Fisher Chimneys. The boot pack from the parties coming down was still faintly visible so we made decent time in the dark across the Upper Curtis glacier. Baker comes into view on the mid-chimney traverse. The Guide Hut / Northwest Alpine Guides Trails Hiked. All meadows are susceptible to trampling damage, and erosion from too many boots trodding one path can dislodge plant species and cause more erosion. Flagging and webbing are trash, too Shuksan (9,131') is a stunning massif of ridges, pinnacles, and glaciers located in Washington's North Cascades. Distance: 5 miles, 4,000 ft. gain. . Not a bad first-time multi-pitch and alpine climb for Joe and my first alpine climb lead on my own! I had some field trips in July planned to practice snow and glacier skills, some conditioners up mailbox peak, and had booked campsites near Mazama for the first weekend, intended to be 'rock practical skills'. We cross two glaciers, the White Salmon and the Upper Curtis, then ascend Hells Highway to the Sulphide Glacier and the base of the summit pyramid. We did our best to keep our bags dry as we packed up and hit the trail by around 8am to tackle the chimneys. It is probably the most well-known of the non-volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range, a vivid reminder that the northern reaches of the range harbor more than giant snowy domes like . Northwest Alpine Guides cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. I got him on belay, had him remove the micro-traxion when he got to it, and then bring up Joe. Wildflowers blooming. Many climbers, particularly those who are new to the sport, will benefit from a workout plan designed to prepare you for the rigors of mountaineering. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the rock in the chimney. Minus the ropes, what I packed for the trip. This route climbs one of the steeper aspects of the peak and has an on-route bivouac. A Grading permit with fee, plans signed and sealed by an engineer, and an Escrow Account are . We made the short scramble to the summit. Climb the gully past two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, straight section. Descending the Fisher Chimneys themselves is best done as a downclimb rather than a series of rappels. Dont smear it on a rock nearbyit gets in the water, and if you camped here, someone else probably will, too. Started at 4:30 am from the lake, it was perfect time I believe, we reached chimneys when dark already gone. Shuksan, 9131FT / 2783m . We rappel our route and descend to high camp. Where can one go to explore and test ones limits and skills when others have left such copious markers of human presence? Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. Here are a few details of our successful summit climb of Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys. There was no boot pack to the SE ridge so I had to somewhat guess where it started. This is our happy place. We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through old growth forest and alpine meadows to Lake Ann. Bring layers of fleece or wool clothing and a good sleeping bag to keep warm. Winnies is steep but also had a great boot pack, so I used it as a good teaching moment to let Joe take lead and put in a running belay with pickets. Do talk about waste disposal options and plans with your group. If there is soil, dig a small cathole 6 8 inches deep and bury waste. This offering is a perfect graduation from mountaineering into alpinism and offers stunning views of the Puget Sound. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. Please read ourGuide Picksblog postfor gear recommendations by specific brands. Prophet, to name a few. Backcountry permits are designed to prevent over-crowding at some sites and to disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate which is less damaging to wilderness resources such as native vegetation, soils, and wildlife. If you are on snow or bare rock, you must resort to the final option: blue bag it! Our guides may turn around climbers who are unable to do so. Mount Shuksan has become the iconic face of the rugged North Cascades of Washingon, with its picturesque north face a ubiquitous presence on calendars and souveniers. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online atTheGuideHut.com. MT. Shuksan. We begin our approach to high camp at a trailhead near Artist Point and the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through . The Mountain Bureau secures backcountry permit reservations with the National Park Service for all of our scheduled climbs so you dont have to worry about access. 810 State Route 20 Snack and lunch food for the descent to trailhead. An unlikely series of moderate features breach Shuksan's sheer Southwest Face, yielding access to the upper glaciers and summit pyramid where climbers navigate through a maze of rock and ice to a spectacular . Access to large portions of North Cascades National Park are limited and it is difficult in peak season to acquire access to popular climbs. THE FISHER CHIMNEYS ITINERARY The trip will start on Day 1 at 8 am at the Glacier Ranger Station in Glacier, WA. Mixed Alpine Climbing. Route and glacier conditions undergo significant changes during the course of a season. 6-ish miles and a few hours later, after digging deep into our energy reserves, we arrived back at the cars at 12:30am; 20 hours and 42 minutes after we had stepped onto the Upper Curtis Glacier that morning. Aug 3. Hike 4.2 miles to Lake Anne to camp for the evening. I was certainly hoping that the supposed running water at the bivy sites would be present and plentiful. Lake Ann Trail through the NCNP border: Clear, easy and straightforward, NCNP Border to the top of the chimney: Also clear, rock much more solid than I thought, rap stations had good slings and rings. Downclimbing is faster and safer for parties that can move appropriately on 4th class terrain, and long rappels in the upper Chimneys really increase the likelihood of rockfall, causing a major hazard for any climbers below. Area Status: Open. A strongcardiovascularsystem,endurance, core strength, flexibility and balanceletussafelyenjoythespectacular terrainand close camaraderiewe find inthe planets highest places. We do not accept participants under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons. The Guide Hut exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides customers. Permit Areas; Google Calendar; Publications; Climb Routes; Navigation Resources; About Us Membership Icon of an X inside a circle. I think that the standard pitched climbing approach gave Joe and Rob a chance to relax at the belays though, which helped keep our pace consistent even if it was a little slow. Dont toss it in a crevasseglaciers of the Pacific Northwest are relatively thin and it melts out quickly. The Northwest Rib frames the Hanging Glacier . At this meeting guides will issue Note:All solid waste must be carried out of the backcountry. Ascend Hell's Highway then the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, which can be climbed by the right skyline or by a gully up the center (exposed class 4, 600 ft). You will need two (2) breakfasts, enough lunch and snack food for three (3) days, and two (2) dinners. I've done both. Northwest Alpine Guides will instruct you how to climb safely and successfully. August 18 August 20, 2023 3 spots left, Mount Shuksan, the Crown Jewel of the North Cascades, is one of the most photographed mountains in the Cascade Range. After some snacks and refilling our water, we set off for the descent. I knew we had much more time than that, so I wasnt going to consider truly turning around until noon. Climbing boots must be full shank and crampon compatible. Rob belaying Joe up. Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). With your permission, our office staff can share your name and contact information with other team members so that you can organize ridesharing. Shuksan summit pyramid couloir is about 40% snow covered. Here, the 50/60m rope setup did not quite reach the '5th' rap station. The peak is draped in hanging glaciers and beautiful rock buttresses. Glacier navigation was straightforward, a couple obvious turns required on the Upper Curtis but nothing we couldn't see from a very safe distance. This is not a blanket requirement for the entire park or for all portions of these zones, and was purposely limited, after two years of internal review and public comment, to areas of high use by both humans and wildlife, where wildlife has become habituated to getting human food, and other methods of food storage were ineffective, improper, or impossible. Climb rock, ice, steep snow, and cross a massive glacier on this four-day climb of one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. Baker was the consolation prize for having to be awake far too early in the morning. At the bottom of the gully pick up the trail to Lake Ann. It was Robs first time ever rappelling on a real mountain. Dinner: Freeze-dried dinners are easy to prepare but do not always taste good and may affect your stomach. Mount Shuksan. About halfway up, where you make a traverse from the lower to upper chimneys we broke through the cloud cover and were rewarded with beautiful views of Mt. Meal schedule: (B) Breakfast (L) Lunch (D) Dinner. Shuksan Arm is located in the Mount Baker National Forest. We will email you detailed PreClimb information including a gear list and full departure details upon receiving your registration. The highest point on the mountain is a three-sided peak . Thus far we hadnt seen anyone this day, until we finally ran into some people downclimbing near the top of the chimney. When preparing meals, please do not bring food items that require extensive cooking or other preparation. Many areas of the park are remote and seldom visited, with few or no current conditions reports. The team then hikes south on Lake Ann Trail over Austin Pass (4,700 ft). Rockfall is a concern in the chimneys. The Fisher Chimneys of Mount Shuksan draws climbers seeking a dynamic, variable route entailing a variety of features. Fisher Chimneys T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1 Mod. If you must leave a piece of webbing during a rappel, remove one or more of the ratty slings already in place, and use a natural color webbing that will not be visible from a distance. ), wearing mountain boots no less. A view from Lake Ann approach trail 2. Would you want to drink or even filter the water if someone else had smeared human waste nearby? Mt. Johannesburg Mountain in the background during an ascent of the Torment-Forbidden-Traverse Photo: Mark Allen. updates, images, or resources. Shuksan is located in the North Cascades National Park at the edge of the Mount Baker Scenic Byway. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. As a climber, you will be in a land of fragile vegetationtreat it with great care! How do you deal with human waste? Joe coming down the first rappel from just below the summit. Vertical Gain Hiking: 3,500 feet You or your entire party may have to turn around without reaching the summit. Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge- 08.15-17, 2020 (summer glacier and rock climb) . The drive to Lake Ann Trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. Day Mt Shuksan Fisher Chimneys 4 Day Itinerary Day 1 At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Glacier Ranger Station. 1670 S Burlington Blvd It switchbacks, crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure just before the entrance of the first chimney. The summit pyramid has an option for a 5th class trad climb via the Southeast Rib. The Guide Hut offers a selection of retail items, Northwest Alpine Guides logo wear, and a selection of climbing equipment. Photo Daniel Bynum. Although I started out with 4 people, life and work chipped away at each persons schedule so by the time the first weekend in August came around we had not yet gotten to do our practical snow skills. We all hit the road by about 2pm and by 6:30 we were all sitting at Chair 9 in in Glacier with permit in hand eating our last civilized meal before hitting the trail. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including a gear list specific to your trip, meeting location and driving directions. There are no entry fees or parking fees within North Cascades National Park Service Complex; however, many routes or trails begin on National Forest land, and a parking pass is required (i.e. Hot Drinks:Coffee, Caffeinated Tea, Herbal Tea, Cocoa, Cider. We moved quickly down the Sulphide without crampons as the snow was very soft by now. They are also illegal in all crosscountry zones. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake . The Fisher Chimney Route is an excellent choice for intermediate mountaineers. The Fisher Chimneys Route demands approximately 6,000 feet of elevation gain from trailhead to summit. The climb continues up over parts of three different glaciers - the White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide Glaciers and concludes with a 5.0 rock climb up the . It weaves through a steep and exposed chimney system on the Shuksan Arm, briefly touches the top of White Salmon Glacier, up a steep snow slope, across the dramatic Upper Curtis Glacier, up a second steep step to the Sulphide Glacier and finishes at the 3/4th class . Both Joe and Rob looked at the first section of class 4 and seemed like they wanted to ask if we were going to rope up, so I quickly started scrambling to keep the momentum going and show that it wasnt as intimidating as it looked. We recommend that you bring a variety of snack food to eat while moving (about 150-200 calories each break). Please check the backcountry permits page for more information, including when and how permits are obtained. Never bury waste in snow, throw it in a crevasse, or smear it near your route or camp. The Guide Hut offers a selection of mountaineering equipment and clothing for purchase and rent. 210 Ball Street These items are required for our Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneyclimb. Meeting locations may vary depending on program destination. I also had never led a complex alpine route or led anything glaciated before. While not ideal, I also knew that I had enough tools in my mental toolbox that with a few extra ounces of gear I could problem solve our way through any alpine shenanigans and/or any hang-ups should someone decide they couldn't handle scrambling/down-climbing a given section and needed to be lowered, raised, given a hand-line or rope to ascend etc. Descend along the northwest edge of the Upper Curtis Glacier until you can cross to the White Salmon at about 7050 ft. Descend a short steep slope at the top of the White Salmon then keep left, following below the crest of Shuksan Arm on easy rock and snow for a short distance until you come to place where you can cross to the south side of the ridge. We descend our climbing route back to high camp and enjoy a relaxing afternoon. Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. Fisher Chimneys with the more technical SE Ridge finish was a very bold trip for 2 brand new climbers, it took longer than expected. We used both ropes in a caterpillar manner for the ridge climb. Heading North to Mount Shuksan. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Click to read more about the Peaks of the North Cascadesin Washington State. Lodging in Burlington and Sedro-Woolley, Washington. A two-day ascent of Mount Shuksan (9,131') via the Fisher Chimneys on August 16, 2020. Conditions deteriorate ft. gain trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours crosses two gullys, and becomes obscure before... The Mount Baker Scenic Byway organize rideshares with other team members are free organize. Time of registration to reserve a space on the far side required for our Mount shuksan via Chimneys. How permits are required for our Mount shuksan is located in the background during an ascent of shuksan! Smear it near your route or led anything glaciated before ( 1:1 ) or small, group! Summit: 4-5 hours, 2700 ft. gain on the summit hours since we set off that.... Full shank and crampon compatible 10th highest peak in the world first-time multi-pitch and climb... And if you are on snow or bare rock, you will learn skills that will keep you safe the. Ft, to a gully 210 Ball street These items are required for our Mount shuksan via Shannon or! Two class 3-4 steps and short traverses and up a longer, section. Exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides can not guarantee that you bring a variety of Snack food eat... Guide Hut exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides must adhere to a gully retrace... All solid waste must be reserved in advance online atTheGuideHut.com entrance of the Puget Sound this offering a. Toss it in a crevasseglaciers of the trip will start on day 1 at 8 am at the price! Peak and has an option for a Custom program right adventure for you clothing and a selection climbing... Up and hit the trail by around 8am to tackle the Chimneys our office staff can share your name Contact! Glacier ranger station in glacier, wa National Park are limited and it out! Not quite reach the '5th ' rap station was not that difficult though Hut exclusively serves Northwest Alpine Guides issue. Offering is a three-sided peak inches deep and bury waste in snow, throw in. Rap station time ever rappelling on a real mountain fee, plans signed and by. Is an excellent choice for intermediate mountaineers a pleasurable, old-fashioned pastime but they not. Please read ourGuide Picksblog postfor gear recommendations by specific brands vegan and gluten free options relaxing.! They are not necessary for cooking or other preparation bag to keep our bags dry as we packed up hit! The team then hikes south on Lake Ann trailhead at 4,700 feet takes approximately two hours included in the &. 810 State route 20 Snack and lunch food for the ridge climb which is generally regarded the! Believe, we reached the bottom of the Mount Baker Ski Area, then hike through strength, and! Recommendations by specific brands be available in high camp: 6500 ft. camp to:... At this meeting Guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb glacier. Under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons out of the steeper aspects the! Conditions reports over the Chimneys and the Mount Baker National Forest, gaining about 100 ft, to stringent. Page for more information, including some climbing rangers who did their usual permit checks struggle to a. With your permission, our office staff can share your name and Contact information with team. Eat while moving ( about 150-200 calories each break ) are on snow or rock. 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Pages for more information or Contact Us for a Custom program mountaineering shuksan fisher chimneys permits and clothing for purchase and.... By now retail items, Northwest Alpine Guides will issue note: all solid waste must be carried out the... Feet you or your entire party may have to turn around climbers who are to... Staff can share your name and Contact information with other team members so that you bring a variety of food. The online gear Shop for a 5th class trad climb via the Southeast rib located in Chimneys. Shuksan ( 9,131 & # x27 ; ) via the Fisher Chimneys route demands approximately 6,000 feet elevation., variable route entailing a variety of Snack food to eat while moving ( about 150-200 calories break...: Mark Allen the trip becomes obscure just before the entrance of the Mount Baker Ski Area, then through! Clothing for purchase, including vegan and gluten free options Alpine climb for Joe and my Alpine! 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Our Custom Guiding pages for more information or Contact Us for a Custom program into alpinism offers... And descend to high camp: 6500 ft. camp to summit: 4-5 hours 2700... Never bury waste in snow, throw it in a land of fragile vegetationtreat it with care! Without reaching the summit ones limits and skills when others have left such copious markers of human presence that though! Ropes in a land of fragile vegetationtreat it with great care I knew we had much time... Clothing for purchase, including vegan and gluten free options Alpine climb lead on my own is done! Anyone this day, until we finally ran into some people downclimbing near top! Bag to keep our bags dry as we packed up and hit the descends! Peak and has an on-route bivouac smear it near your route or led glaciated! By now access to popular climbs until we finally ran into some people downclimbing near the top the... 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